Face charts

Face charts

 After practicing several techniques I had to draw up face charts to visualise a sequence for the film. It has to represent the message and it has to flow so the transition is as the tittle says a 'Dimensional Metamorphosis'.

After taping my face up several times, this face chart represents the placement of the scotch tape. It alters the main features apart from the nose, I did try taping my nose so that it would look crooked however when applying product over the top it would often loosen as there is too much of a gap between the skin and the tape as the nose is obviously raised. Also it was very uncomfortable and could cause problems with breathing when the clay mask is applied. 

This will be the second look, where the face has a thick layer of foundation creating a sense of blank canvas in order to re-create facial features such as the brows.

Using grease based products, colour is added to re-create the brows, lips and cheeks.

Instead of smudging the make-up, as this would have irritated the tape I wanted the make-up to drip. Using the icing sugar technique I could create different consistencies to get it to drip a lot or just a little, this control was needed as I did not want it to get into my models eyes.

This look is the face mask that will be applied, I will be using fullers earth for this and will be covering my models eyes, mouth and ears. Special care has to be given to this so that the model does not feel too uneasy and is still able to breath properly. 

The same sequence as above is re-created but on top of the clay the eyes, ears and mouth will also still be covered up by the fullers earth.

Here the make-up is dripping over the face, it can be of a thin consistency that it has a more dramatic affect and will run down the face.

The last look will be the model scrapping off the make-up making it look like they are scratching their eyes out and revealing their true identity, the revelation of self-worth and inner beauty that subsides the pressures and influences of society.

Explaining the looks

Explaining the looks

Tape:

In this image, I am going to distort the face entirely by changing the illusion of normality to a stereotypically distortion of what is seen as ‘distorted’. Thinking about the comfort of the model, will determine which type of tape is used i.e., cellotape, masking tape, magic tape etc. The tape texture has to be considered also to make sure that it can be camouflaged with make-up and the camera.  Use of grease paint could also affect the way the tape sticks to the face and could result in the tape peeling off of the face leaving no distortion.

The tape is not only giving an odd feel to the performance, but is leaving questions in the mind such as, what is beauty? What does the film mean? The beauty of the film is that every individual person will walk away thinking differently with different question about the film. There are no set answers and it will be seen as different to every person. The tape really starts the film perfectly, as you do not see the model’s features as he is, but in fact distorted in a way that could be real. What is normality??

Thick layer of foundation:

This layer of make-up will cover the tape, it represent an extreme version of the concealment process many of us go through to cover up 'imperfections'. It creates a thick barrier and mask, changing our physical appearance. It gives a caged kind of feeling, a sense of hiding and surrealism due to its unrealistic appearance.

This look is created by mixing a tinted moisturiser with a regular moisturiser to get a thick substance. 

Make-up:

This next looks is very theatrical and unnatural. The face can be seen as even more distorted, layering the face with even more textures and colours. The make-up used in this image is grease based, for example; the eyebrows and lips are supracolours and the base is tinted and normal moisturiser. This could be a potential problem for the tape as grease and anything oil based results in the sticky part of the tape peeling away from the skin as stated in the previous paragraph.

This look could put across a number of thoughts to the viewers as it is potentially normal makeup used over distortion but with a theatrical feel. The ‘caking’ effect will show up well on the camera.

I also thought of adding lashes to distort that balance between gender however this is something I need to test to see what impact it has on the overall look.

Smudging:

The smudging will add eeriness to the performance, making the viewer’s question the sequences’ meaning more and more. The face will now be completely unrecognisable and different to what we perceive to be normal. Why is this? What is the message putting across to the audience? The issue with this look again could be the grease base while smudging as it could irritate the tape. The look itself will be completely ‘ruined’. The face will be busy with different mediums of disfigurement. Make-up, features, textures and colours.

Icing Sugar:

The next look could or could not flow with the previous sequences. It shows much colour and again, an extreme look. The colours will not flow in with each other but will have a dripping effect. The colours will be vibrant and will fall into each other without fading. The texture will be 3D and indented. 

Clay:

The face will be covered fully with the clay and then have the makeup (oil paints) be drawn on by myself and then the model will proceed to smudge and scrape the clay off of the face throughout the course of the video. The face will be completely distorted now, and completely unrecognisable. This sequence may come across to the viewer as quite disturbing. But one of the points of the video as I have said before is to cause questioning and difference in opinion to broaden imagination so ideas of what is being put across to the audience can be combined. It could also set off in people’s mind; what is disfigurement? What is normal? There are so many warped views of what is stereotypically normal, that this video crosses all boundaries in order to make people consider different possibilities of what is ‘right’ and what is ‘wrong’.

I am still deciding on how to carry it on, I am thinking of creating the same sequence as above on the clay but instead of smudging it having the model scrape it off. I need to practice this on a model instead of myself to see what impact it has, and how they cope with having all these products on their skin as I know some of the looks are slightly uncomfortable. 

Reflecting on feedback

FMP proposal feedback:

Additional Comments: Marianne, an exciting proposal with clear contextual and theoretical underpinning and something you are obviously excited about – wonderful, make the most of this!

Ellis Faas is a great reference – I also advise you have a look at Olivier de Saagazan – if you are not familiar with his work, he is engaged with exactly the ideas you are and executes his work in a very arresting visual and performative style. The model you have chosen looks very interesting – will he be clean shaven so that his gender will be less clear? Will you obscure his adam’s apple?

Your production schedule looks sound – I am pleased to see that you have allowed time for testing and a practise run. Will you come to my drop in and show me the results please? I am very interested in the subject matter of this project! It is excellent to see that you have begun to storyboard this – careful and detailed planning is the key to success here. It would also have been beneficial to test one or two of the key looks for the proposal submission – this would have been a substantial way to strengthen your primary research and something to consider in future particularly if you continue to work in the area of film.

Marianne, the key to this project is the range of explorations in make-up and the depth of product knowledge you have already managed to acquire.  Your understanding of performance and the rutalaisation of make-up application is an important area to consider and I hope that this does not become lost through the filming and editing process.  While one of your concerns was that you would be stepping out of your comfort zone, the range of investigation you have currently appropriated suggests that this will not be a problem. I look forward to seeing the end results.

Reflection:

I thought it to be beneficial to post my feedback so that I can look at it carefully and reflect on what to do next. It helps me to evaluate which parts of my FMP so far are strong and which parts need strengthening. This post is to add to my research and depict sections of my FMP to create a sound structure ready for filming. 

As the make-up can be perceived as quite eery and unnerving at times I decided to go more with Ellis Faas' filming style as it is calm and shows of the make-up well. A thought has occurred to me to possibly have hands moving the head to represent the suppressing influences and pressures of society.

As suggested I researched Olivier de Sagazan, his work definitely puts you on edge but it has inspired me further and think this references will be a great addition to my FMP. 

This film shows me different techniques that I could use and represents how he completely transforms himself. Its unnerving, shocking yet amazingly intriguing and innovative; these are key words that I would like to apply to my project also.

Furthermore, my model will be clean shaven so that the make-up can lay nicely on the skin as well as discerning his gender. I will not be obscuring his adam's apple as my focus is solely on the face and I don't want to disguise his male form completely. 

I am aware that I am currently running behind on my production schedule however I believe that if all my ideas are structured sufficiently and practiced in advanced that I will be able to catch up and produce something of a high standard and to the desired effect. 

More testing

More Testing 

Looking back at my 'Testing' post I re-evaluated certain ideas and aspects of my designs. After looking into female models as suggested by my tutor I decided to stick with my original concept as I stated in my previous post, I have written my dissertation on gender and think using a male model will add another dimension and aspect of confusion to my film. I was still questioning this but felt strongly that I had to go with my gut instinct on this one. I have decided to go with my tutors input of scraping away the make-up as I agree that it will be more effective.  

I have carried out some more test shots on myself with the tape, as stated in my previous post I have now tested scotch tape. It worked much better and the make-up would lay on the surface of the tape a lot better too, it improved the overall look as scotch tape isn't shiny like cello-tape.

To see how the tape would stay when heavily grease based make-up was applied, I carried out the make-up look again. Although looking back at the image instead of going with the 'disfigured' shapes of the face I believe it would be more beneficial to create 'perfect' structures to ensure the message of re-creating 'perfection'. I am also considering to possibly have just a plain made-up face (just foundation) before this look. 

I then tested added the addition of icing sugar mixed with powder and water, it was great fun to do and gave a really cool affect. Although I am contemplating if this look flows with the rest of the images, so this is something I will be reflecting on and may have to compromise.

After this look I took images of me scraping away and smudging the make-up, I also filmed this however I was not too pleased with the outcome as I think thicker application would be more effective for this.

After practicing this look I came up with the idea of smudging the first make-up look so below is a test shoot of this. I think this may be more beneficial and will present the balance of 'perfection' and 'imperfection' better than the look with icing sugar, it is something for me to think about!! 

In addition to this, I have started to create my storyboard so that I am able to get the idea across efficiently to my videographer and have the right materials to carry out my practice run.

Reflection

Reflection

Looking back to my 'Testing' post I noted down a couple of points that were discussed with my tutor.

Firstly organising a date to film and collaborates:

I am currently trying to plan when to film and organising the collaborates involved. I found a studio nearby my hometown where I can shoot the film for a reasonable cost, because I am running behind on my schedule I decided to book the studio for the 11th of March so that then I would have plenty of time to edit as I will also be out of the country during the Easter break.

I confirmed the date with the collaborated and the studio but soon after my videographer let me know that he couldn't make it, I also found out that we had our progress presentation so had to change the date. Luckily I didn't put the deposit down just yet!!
I managed to change the studio date to the 18th and have order my props and organised a 'back-up' model. 

Secondly deliberating model choice:

As I did my dissertation on gender indentity and gender blurring I wanted to incorporate that concept, also as the overall idea is to put the viewers into a questioning mindset I thought using a male model would enhance this. My tutor suggested to consider using a female model, I did some research into possible models I could use for the project and deliberated changing my original concept to using a female model instead. After sleeping on it I followed my gut instinct to use a male model as I felt like it makes the film more experimental and unusual, as well as embracing the concept of blurring genders. 

And thirdly, scraping the make-up or having it drip?:

As my tutor suggested scrapping the make-up off instead of having it drip I decided to practice it to see how it will look (which will be shown in my next post) to see which one is more affective. Furthermore after realising there may be some issues with using the technique that would create a dripping affect due to it stinging the eyes I may have to use the scrapping or find a different way to make it work. 

Testing

Testing

To get my head around what I want to be doing I decided to test some techniques and looks on myself. It will help me decided what will work as well as how the products will feel on my models skin. 

The first techniques I tested was using cello-tape and plasters, to distort facial features focusing on the lips, eyes, and nose. Plasters didn't let me put enough tension on the skin so just laid flat on the face instead of changing features. I then tried cello-tape which when pulled tight altered my features severely; stretching the skin, adding folds, changing the skin colour and shapes of the eyes, nose and lips. It was successful however there are a few more elements that I want to try before finalising this as my first look, as it is shiny will scotch tape work better when applying any products over the top and will it be strong and sticky enough to create the same effects as cello-tape does?

In this image I also applied a red lipgloss mixed with golden syrup to make it drip, the bottom lip is stuck down with a plaster which didn't hold very well and the top lip is shaped with cello-tape.

The next look will be applying a thick layer of make up over the cello-tape, indicating societies needs to cover up imperfections. Black eyebrows, red lips and rosy cheeks will be applied to represent a fresh faced and generic make-up look.

 It is clear that this layer of make-up needs to be a lot thicker and excessive to make it more impressive and effective.

I then want to apply paint to the face to sculpt as well as adding colour to the face using Francis Bacon as reference. 

After testing this I decided I did not like how it lays flat on the face, so using reference to Alex Box's work with Rankin I will be testing it with icing sugar and either ink or powder so it is raised and vibrant. I also considered doing this with poster paint however this could stain the skin so the ideas above are the alternative plans. 

After this I though of the idea of making the make-up drip of the face, as I was thinking of it melting away. As most of the products are grease based a product with soap as it's main ingredient would be most effective. The only downside to this would be that it could get into the models eyes and sting, so I thought of children's shampoo as is often advertised to not sting when dripping into eyes. 

After meeting with my tutor I have a few tasks on hand

• Sorting out the date for filming is very important to me at this stage, so that I can stay on top of everything and feel organised. Also it helps me to progress and arrange my team.
• My tutor, Sharon, has also advised me to consider my use of a male model and maybe deliberate the use of a female model instead.
• Sharon also suggested a different method instead of the dripping of the make up for the model to scrape it away as it may be more in tune with the story line and the overall look and feel of my concept.
• I also have to re-write my initial storyboard and refine the details and meanings behind each scene. This will help my team as well as they will then be able to understand the concept more making it easier to achieve what is desired. 

Research, Research, Research!!!

Research, Research, Research!!!

I got super excited about the different images and artists I found so decided to dedicate another post to my research and my obsessive pinning session!!

This fabulous image is Bart Hess' 'Slime Art' I looked at Hess' work due to his use of unique materials, creating fantastic textures and this concept seems open to interpretation to the viewers. It is innovative and effective, and something I am contemplating to use as part of my project (How? I don't know yet).

Renowned make-up artist Alex Box created this look as part of a collaborative project with photographer Rankin. Box refers to this series of imager as Charlie 9, creating a range from white to black and everything in between. Her work is inspirational to many students and artists alike as Alex Box uses the face and body of her models as her blank canvas, developing something extraordinary using unconventional products. In the images of this series she used icing sugar, cake decoration, glues and paper. Her product use makes me reflect on my references and enthuses me to use some of these techniques. 

This project by Lois Cohen is effectively named 'Botox do it yourself'. The use of flesh coloured plasters are highly effective in changing her models facial features, this would be a great technique to use as I would also be able to paint over them. They can contour and shape the face in unique and abstract ways but still remain realistic. 

These images by Paddy Hartley show his 'Face Corsets', they manipulate the skin in remarkable ways and create an eccentric perception of beauty. Hartley created the face corset in response of the current facial ideals in western society. Just as Cohen, Hartley's inspiration also derives from cosmetic surgery; however Paddy Hartley's design has been used support the face and benefit the healing process after skin grafts and surgery. These images make me look at facial structures and dimensions in a different way, making me consider how I can manipulate the skin to achieve something avant-garde.

Dutch artists Lernert and Sander created a transformation from a natural beauty look to something outrageous. Applying 365 layers of make-up, overall using 228.40ml of make-up. With a lot of the work I've researched it seems that simplicity is the key, application and concept are the components that make it intricate and original. This video being a primary example of this!

This project my Tadas Cerniauskas is not just funny but highly effective. Blasting a strong force of air at his models affecting mainly their mouth, eyes and hair. No specific make-up or applications are used but as the skin is manipulated by the air the colouring and original shapes are altered extremely. 



For more information or images please visit:

http://barthess.nl
http://trendland.com/the-makeup-artist-alex-box-rankin/
http://www.loisdcohen.com
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/health/3716834.stm
http://paddyhartley.com
http://lernertandsander.com
http://www.tadaocern.com

A change of heart

A change of heart

I looked back upon my original face charts and decided it was just not good enough. I want to try something new, be unique and unconventional; so with a little direction from my tutor I decided to look further into artists that target the subject area of deformity, skin manipulation and layered make-up application.

I used pinterest to research photographers, painters, make-up artists and other designers, and created a board for reference and inspiration. 

Photographers Wes Naman's work 'Scotch Tape' (left) represents a series of portraits with his models covered in tape distorting their features. His work looks similar to a piece created by Douglas Gordon 'Monster' 1997, where this technique was also used. I am using Naman's project 'Scotch Tape'  as reference as his use of a simplistic material is a creation of something highly effective and a perfect representation of distortion.

'The Ugly Truth' by Rut Mackel, photographer Mackel had his models press their faces up against framed glass to get this image of facial distortion. Mackel's images reflect personal identity. Just as within my concept Rut Mackel wants to challenge people's perception of physical beauty. 

Natalia Pereira's project communicates the concern towards the domination of habitual consumerism. For my project I have started to look at the perception of beauty and body image discovering a psychological disorder called Body Dysmorphic Disorder (BDD), disrupting their personal perception of their body image, causing distress and phobias.  This project, appropriately named 'Dismorfobina',  also explores factors of this disorder.

As stated in my FMP proposal I want to use the face as my blank canvas. This is exactly what artist Boo Ritson does, she paints her models with emulsion which creates another dimension along with presenting the observer with ambiguity. She portrays a sense of realism as well as a likeness of static art.

Renowned photographer Cindy Sherman transforms herself with the use of make-up, she shows how effective make-up is as a material for transfiguration. Using her work as a reference is important for my project, inspiring me to push boundaries and using make-up effectively to portray the questioning Sherman's work conveys in several ways.             

This sequence of images by Paco Peregrin intrigued me by the use of bright colour and the bandage across the face, it is beautiful yet ominous.

The start

THE START

It is clear that my project needs a lot more consideration in regards to research to further my knowledge of various application techniques and product usage to truly make my project unique.

This week my main research focus is art looking at Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud, Jenny Saville and Cecily Brown whom represent a varied visualization of colour, distortion and ambiguity.

http://www.tumblr.com/tagged/jenny%20saville

Jenny Saville's paintings target deviant subjects, her intense use of colour and sense of realism is highly inspirational and an interesting factor that borderlines unsettling. 

http://www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk/artists/artpages/brown_High_Society.htm

It's the ambiguity that Cecily Brown presents that intrigued me as well as her skilful use of her bright colour choices.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/mans-head-self-portrait-iii-1963

With artist Lucian Freud it was more his use of brush work, creating a dimension to the face contouring and sculpturing different aspects which is something I could also achieve with make-up application.

http://www.leninimports.com/francis_bacon_gallery_6.html

Ellis Faas' main inspiration for her film, Francis Bacon. His use of shapes and colour are incredible and show me how I could possibly apply his technique to create something obscure. Also there is still a sense of realism to the human face that is presented in this image. 

I also carried out my first test shoot this week; I wanted to create a layer of skin that would be peeled off like in this image.

  It was suggested to me to use latex and layer it up, as it will then be able to peel off in one piece. Sadly this was not very effective, the application process went well however removing it was more of a struggle than expected. It did not come off in one piece and was not very comfortable for the model. So I will test this idea again using a different method, I am going to try and use the feel off face mask and possibly layer it up as well which will hopefully be easier and more comfortable to peel off in one piece.

Of a sensitive nature

Of a sensitive nature

DISCLAIMER: 

Images and information portrayed in this post will be of a sensitive nature, talking about craniofacial syndromes, conditions and other facial differences. Please DO NOT read this if you are uncomfortable with the nature of this topic. Of no means is this meant to harm or offend anyone. This is purely for research purposes to gain knowledge and understanding, and to fully comprehend the realistic affects  certain conditions and incidents can have on the skin as well as facial features. 

It wasn't the easiest research to conduct as the images can be quite upsetting, however it does make me more determined to put an important message across and succeed in the camouflage make-up industry. Often people are born with facial differences and it is not something that is preventible, it by no means means that these individuals are strange or ugly. Facial differences do not define an individual so it angered me when an online definition explained a deformity to be ugly! 

I separated and narrowed down my research into skin and facial structure looking at a varied range of syndromes, conditions and incidents that can alter the appearance as well as texture.

• Acne for example can affect the skin in several ways, it can show up as whiteheads being a pimple under the skin, blackheads a black pimple on the surface of the skin, pustules being red pimples, and cysts. It is clear that acne changes the texture and colour of the skin as well as causing possible scarring.
  

• Port Wine Stain also known as a birthmark, this ruby red or purple skin discolouration is caused by swollen blood vessels. 
  

• Burns affect the skin severely and often leaves the individual scarred, however burns can effect more then just the skin tissue depending if it is a first, second or third degree burns affecting the texture and surface of the skin.
  

• Cleft lip is one of the most common physical birth defects and is characterized by a vertical split in the upper lip. Cleft lip can be on one side only (unilateral) or on both sides (bilateral).

• Bell's palsy is a form of facial paralysis or muscle weakness. Bell's Palsy can vary depending on the individual, it can affect the mouth and eyelid.
  

• Moebius Syndrome is a rare neurological disorder effecting the cranial nerves creating a mask-like expression as those with the condition are unable to frown, smile or blink.
  
  
  
  These are only a small number of syndromes and conditions I researched, it has been a crucial part of my development 

For more information please visit: http://aboutface.ca/page.php?id=1643